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Fixing Downpipe on roof tile?
I have to run 2 lengths (total length 3m) of downpipe across the roof of an extension. This to avoid water running onto the roof, which cause leakage due to large amount of rain water. Can anyone suggest how should I fix the downpipe onto the roof-tile without having to drill it (it would sound a daft idea). So how can I fix the downpipe onto the roof without it being blown away by high wind. Much appreciated for any suggestions!
i,ve done this
get a metal coat hanger and cut it into 8" lengths, bend in the middle to form a vee shape.
get some large tie wraps and put them around the waste and fasten the cut lengths to the pipe in a straight line.
push the bent pieces of wire up into the tiles firmly and the tiles will hold it in place.
do this on a dry day and mastic it in for added security
don,t worry about it rusting, it will be a lot of years before this will affect the metal
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11 Responses to “Fixing Downpipe on roof tile?”
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January 31st, 2009 at 6:26 am
you want guttering
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January 31st, 2009 at 6:50 am
I would suggest you use mastic, its water proof and very sticky!! when fixing it make sure everything is clean and dry, you can pick some up at your local DIY centre, you may need a gun too.
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January 31st, 2009 at 7:09 am
not sure the way you've worded your question,down pipe doesn't run across the way.i assume you mean guttering?if so you must first look at the size and pitch of your roof.if a lot of water will come off it very quickly then you need deep flow guttering if not then normal will do.you cant attach it to the tiles though,you ll need to fit a facia board below the tiles and run the guttering very slightly off of horizontal running toward the down pipe so as the water doesn't fill up the other end of the gutter. i hope that's what your looking for
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January 31st, 2009 at 7:52 am
Since it is only 3 m long you may get away with running the downpipe along to the edge of the roof, turning it through 90 degrees and fixing a bracket to the fascia or verge board.
In order to avoid it moving much in the event of wind then you can place a sand bag across the pipe at the centre of its span. This will work if your roof pitch is not too steep.
If you want to use traditional brackets on roof tiles, I suggest you use a bitumen based adhesive to bond the bracket to the tile although the bond may break after a year or two.
Good luck and remember to tie yourself onto somewhere or you will be asking another question on here about life in a full body cast.!
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17 years in construction
January 31st, 2009 at 8:03 am
Typically gutters are nailed down and supported by hangers and straps. You might need Fascia installed before the gutters.
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January 31st, 2009 at 8:49 am
Fix it to a wall with pipe clips.If its got to go accross a flat roof just put sand bags on it.If the extension roof is tiled and leaking badly either the pitch is to low for the tile , the felt needs replacing or the lead flashing is leaking
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23years building and roofing
January 31st, 2009 at 8:56 am
Why two lengths?. you should be able to get one length for 3m.the fewer joints the better.I take it the water is coming from a gutter higher up, if so fit an appropriate bend where it sheds onto the extension roof and fit a downpipe bracket to the wall,
This will hold it rigid at that end, then run your new downpipe across to where the extension downpipe is,disconnect this from the extension gutter, fit a "hopper" to the top of the extension downpipe, it looks like a large funnel, you'll have to cut the top of the downpipe so the existing gutter runs into it as well as your new downpipe. Fix the new pipe to the fascia board with another bracket, that way you do not need to fix it to the tiles …….good luck
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January 31st, 2009 at 9:44 am
i,ve done this
get a metal coat hanger and cut it into 8" lengths, bend in the middle to form a vee shape.
get some large tie wraps and put them around the waste and fasten the cut lengths to the pipe in a straight line.
push the bent pieces of wire up into the tiles firmly and the tiles will hold it in place.
do this on a dry day and mastic it in for added security
don,t worry about it rusting, it will be a lot of years before this will affect the metal
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plumber and been there and done it
January 31st, 2009 at 10:27 am
We do this a lot in Scotland with snow boards. And i guess the same would apply for any guttering or downpipes. Lift the tile or slate above where your laying the fitting,with a thin flat peice of metal(not more than 3/16inch) Lay it in where roof covering was,fix it through the top lay the tile/slate back down and form the shape at the end to hold your pipe/guttering etc
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Roofer in the highlands for 25 years
January 31st, 2009 at 10:57 am
if the roof leaks with the extra rain water then you have a problem with the roof ..but you can still drill and fix downpipe brackets to the tiles ..just use a sharp masonry drill and leave the hammer off
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January 31st, 2009 at 11:21 am
I once saw a clever idea on a roof to hold a downpipe, A tile was pushed up to expose the wood, and a copper wire ( old electrical earthing wire) was secured to the wood with a brass wood screw, the tile was lowered back and an adjacent one was done in the same way, the downpipe was wound with the two wires, and NEVER moved in the wind.
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